For roughly ¥400 ($50) plus the cost of food, Beijing's ancient roast-meat restaurant Kaorouji now arranges what may be the most charming dining experience in the city: a meal for up to eight people served aboard a narrow canopied flat-bottom boat, staffed by a lone oarsman who guides the craft in a gentle arc around the man-made serenity of Qian Hai and Hou Hai. The entire trip takes roughly 2 hours. A little extra money buys live traditional music and the opportunity to float candles in the lakes after dark falls -- a cliche in the making, but who cares? The restaurant is located next to Nuage at Qian Hai Dong Yan 14 (meal for 2 ¥120-¥160/$15-$20; daily 11am-2pm and 5-9pm). To make boat arrangements, call tel. 010/6612-5719 or 010/6404-2554. Note: Boat-rental prices vary from season to season and will probably increase as time goes on.